Raf Raf Tomato Sauce

          After about a week of daily rain and nearly hurricane force winds, everything calmed this weekend and for our Monday off of work for the Aid holiday it was like a summer day (in a place like the Northwest where it’s pleasantly hot in the summer).
We took a driving trip into the countryside to the northern coastal towns of Raf Raf and Ghar El Melh.  The farms were like manicured gardens:  intensely planted and the soil was rich and nurtured.

These towns are sleepy little fishing villages with a big history as posts of the pirates during the Ottoman occupation of the 17th century.

It was really quiet today, just some fishermen painting their boats and lots and lots of nice looking young men walking around and doing foolish stunts on motorbikes.  I think the young men in this country need more to do.   Maybe a lot of people are afraid that is true.
When I saw this roadside farmer’s stand I yelled STOP!  Look at this marketing idea, putting all of the produce into small buckets and displaying them on multi-leveled, multi-colored baskets.  You actually buy the produce by the bucket.  We bought two buckets of tomatoes, one of onions, one of peppers, and one of limes.

Upon returning home, we immediately rolled up our sleeves and began processing tomatoes.  The blog, Saving the Season, was very helpful in giving me a little sequence for getting them safely into jars.  We simply par boiled them in batches, chilled them on ice (until the ice ran out), peeled and chopped them, smashed and cooked them, and then put them into sterilized jars.  I sort of thought they would fill more jars than this, but then this is 1 1/4 gallons of processed tomatoes and that is a lot.

The final step is a 45 minute water bath and then the reward of every home canner:  the pop, pop, pop of the lids assuring her that the contents will be safe from botulism until she chooses to eat those tomatoes.

Birthday Braise

          It’s Allan’s birthday.  We have a long succession of November birthday parties together.  It turns out to be a nice time for a party.  The weather is cool, but not yet frigid and some warm and filling foods taste very good.

We had 12 great friends over and lucked out with a warmer than recent evening, a lovely night sky,  and no wind.  We pulled the garden tables close to the barbecue and kept a fire going all evening.
The main dish was Cranberry Short-Rib Stew.  This was, again, from the stew/beer pairings section of the October 2011 edition of Sunset Magazine.  The recommended beer was Deschutes Brewery Black Butte Porter.  There were a lot of smokey and bright flavors in this stew that might not have been immediately recognizable, like chocolate, cranberries. ginger, and orange zest.  After cooking a couple of hours, the meat was tender enough, but the stock was still a little watery.  I uncovered the dish and continued to bake it for about 2 more hours which served to caramelize all of the complexities.

I couldn’t buy meat on bones at our butcher so I bought meat and bones.
After browning, but before braising.  See recipe for finished dish photo.

Since we are officially off pumpkin.  I omitted the addition of pumpkin in the stew, but it still needed some color.  Instead, I roasted some of our vibrant, almost red carrots.  I drizzled them with olive oil and seasoned them with herbes de provence, Himalayan pink salt, and pepper.  They needed to roast for at least 2 hours to get completely tender and a little caramelized.  As a finishing touch, I drizzled them with some passion fruit vinegar, which set them off nicely.

Think you already have the perfect mashed potato sequence?  Bon Appetit has a process that might give you some new thoughts about it.  You start with large cubed potatoes that you cook in salted water.  When they are fork tender, you drain them and turn them out onto a baking sheet to cool and dry for about 15 minutes.

Then, you force the potatoes through a ricer or food mill, along with 1/2 cup of chilled butter.

Heat milk, cream, bay leaves, fresh thyme or rosemary, and pepper corns on the stove.  Allow to steep about 20 minutes and then strain.  Reheat milk mixture.  Pour over potatoes as you stir.  I used the dough hook on my Kitchen Aid mixer.

This may be the biggest tip of the recipe:  at this point you can hold the potatoes in fluffy condition if you do the following.  Number one, cover the potatoes with plastic wrap directly touching them.  Number two,  keep them in a bowl over, but not touching, simmering water.

I kept them for over an hour and they turned out great.

And because I said I would, here is the link to the chocolate peanut butter cake at Smitten Kitchen.  Yes, it is a great recipe.

Eight Cups of Pumpkin- Do It!

            Oh my goodness, I have to put some distance between this entry and that leftover pumpkin picture on my last entry.  This may need to be a very long piece.  My Saturday morning mantra:  I will not compost that pumpkin, I will not compost that pumpkin.  Step #1 then, break it down.  Very few recipes call for huge hunks of pumpkin and as I already made clear, my husband doesn’t really like straight pumpkin anyway so it all has to be converted to puree.  Easy enough to do.  It now equals eight cups.  By day’s end, I will have used every last plop of the stuff and we will have some ready-made food in our freezer.  I just have to focus and get it done.
1 Cup
Pumpkin Waffles
This is a recipe from Smitten Kitchen.  It didn’t use a ton of pumpkin, but as waffles go, the recipe incorporated quite a lot of real food.  This is the local flour I buy most often.

I think it works well as whole wheat pastry flour.

Let’s be honest, waffles can be a hassle due to the various bowls for wet ingredients, dry ingredients, and then the egg white whipping.  I’m really not trying to show off here, but I’m just going to say that having two mixing bowls for your Kitchen Aid mixer is slick.  This 220 voltage model I bought to bring to Tunisia just came with two bowls or I would never have made that choice.  For this sort of preparation and for double batches that would overwhelm one bowl, it’s so convenient.

Now, we have about 10 individually frozen waffles in the freezer.

4 Cups
This recipe is the winner of the most pumpkin use award. The base recipe is my Homecoming Muffins, simply substituting pumpkin for the grated vegetables.  I intentionally underbaked them because I wanted them to be custardy, almost like bread pudding.  It worked.  We have a dozen muffins and two small loaves of bread in the freezer.

3 Cups
Black Bean Pumpkin Soup
This is also from Smitten Kitchen.  Hey, she’s been in my shoes.  The recipe actually called for over 4 cups of puree and I only had three.  Good problem.  I didn’t have any black beans, but I had a little package of tiny beans/peas I bought last spring in Umbria.  I don’t know what they all are, but some of them are black eyed peas.  They have such an earthy flavor.  They actually kind of taste like dirt, but most people don’t think that is a nice taste so I’ll stick with earthy.  I had to cook them before I could assemble the soup.

And there it is.  2 quarts of soup in the freezer.  Turns out I misread the soup recipe and it was 4 1/2 cups of beans it called for and only 1 1/2 cups of pumpkin so at the end of the day, I still had 1 1/2 cups of puree left.  But I’ve got some nice items in my frozen pantry and I can sleep well tonight knowing I gave it my best shot.

Pumpkin Cashew Cheese Dip

          Remember that ginormous pumpkin I stuffed and baked last Sunday?   Wow, that was a lot of pumpkin.  After the dinner guests took their small slivers (My husband:  “No pumpkin for me, I’ll just have some stuffing.”) and I gave a huge hunk to our hostess, I still took this much home.

We ate the stuffing with a chicken dish on Monday and I cut, peeled, and refrigerated the rest of the pumpkin.  Then I got really busy and couldn’t cook much for a couple of nights.  Finally, on Thursday, I needed to bring an appetizer to my book club and found a recipe for something called cashew cheese.  This is actually a vegan recipe that contains absolutely no dairy and is foundationally built upon pumpkin.  Yea, that’s good for me.
I couldn’t find raw cashews in Tunis, but I had blanched almonds and gave those a try.  I don’t know what cashew cheese is meant to taste like, but this made an interesting pumpkin spice flavored dip, slightly sweet, with a little kicky heat from some cayenne.  Served with baguette slices brushed with olive oil and rosemary, slices of fresh apples, and some real cheese,  it was nice.  The almonds didn’t completely break down so my dip had some chopped nuts that needed further chewing,  It was fine.

This is REAL cheese my friend, Lauren, just brought from The Hague.
The first new lemon of the season.

Rethink Candied Yams!

            Why is it so challenging sometimes to just try a completely new recipe?  I consider myself to be an adventurous eater, but then I’m sometimes surprised at the recipes I just don’t try.  What is the worst that can happen?  I did try this, though, and I was rewarded.  I’ve been a little off cauliflower since I moved from Kathmandu where I think I ate cauliflower every single day for five years.  Yet I tried this and loved it.  We had it with crispy, caramelized roast chicken and baked potatoes with bacon, chives, and crème fraiche.  The salty, peppery, slightly sweet, nutty combination was a great companion to the meal.  I think it could work the same for a roast turkey.  Consider it.

Roasted Cauliflower with Date Syrup
from Bon Appetit, October 2011, pg. 24
1 head of cauliflower (about 2 lbs.) cored and broken into flowerets
2 Tbsp olive oil, plus more for drizzling
Sea Salt and freshly ground pepper
¼ cup tahini
2 Tbsp. (or more) date syrup, maple syrup, or honey
2 tsp. (or more) lemon juice
Sea salt
Preheat oven to 400 to 500 degrees.  Place cauliflower, olive oil, and salt and pepper in a plastic storage bag and shake to coat.  Roast, until browned and tender, about 30 minutes.
Transfer to a mixing bowl.  Drizzle with tahini, syrup or honey, and lemon juice.  Adjust seasoning with the addition of salt and pepper.  Turn out to a serving plate and drizzle with more olive oil and lemon juice, if desired.

Pumpkin Stuffed with Everything Good

Do you think it’s fun having a Halloween birthday or are childhood birthday memories overshadowed by memories of tummy aches from birthday cake and then too much Halloween candy? And is your birthday party always dress-up?

            Today is our friend Paula’s birthday.  Yes, there will be cake, but we’re also having lots of good adult food featuring a stuffed, baked pumpkin, recipe by Dorie Greenspan.  The title of this piece is actually the title Dorie gave to the recipe.  Let’s see if you agree with the “everything good” list: Good quality French bread
2-3 types of good cheese
Garlic
Crispy bacon
Cream
Fresh chives and thyme 
 

Any quibbles?
                If you make this, and you should, you should have a friend who’s handy in the kitchen help you.  I had my Mr. What’s Next at my right hand or it would have taken me much longer to assemble this.  The thing that really slowed me down was hand-cubing at least 12 cups of fairly tough crusted bread without cutting a finger… again.

The skin is green, but the flesh is electric orange.

The other part that is always a little physical is cutting into a whole, large pumpkin without severing an appendage.  Allan did that part.  Feared medical emergencies aside, this is a really nice comfort dish, perfect for today as it has been raining torrentially since about midnight last night.  And that would be the great part about having a Halloween birthday. Atmosphere.

            By the way, KS is planning to serve this at her Thanksgiving feast this year so if you are lucky enough to get one of those golden tickets, act surprised.

New Favorite Thing

          Here is something I picked up when I was in the US as basically a novelty item.  To be totally truthful, I really liked the jar and I assumed whatever tomato vinegar was could be replaced with many other mixtures if I didn’t like it. 
          Continuing with my process of eating our way through the refrigerator/freezer, I began with a package of ground beef whose celophane wrap had been punctured.  Mmmm, salivating already?  The vegetable bin produced some nice brown onions, limp spring onions, garlic, and some green/yellowing cilantro.  Undaunted, I composted the spring onions, browned the meat, sauteed the onions and garlic and put it back together.  Plain.  I then added a couple of teaspoons of smoky paprika chipotle seasoning I had brought over on a previous trip.  Now we were getting somewhere, but it was a little heavy.  Try a few shakes of this new tomato vinegar and wow, we’ve got zip!  It’s got the kick of ketchup without the sugar and goo.  We then had a Friday night dinner that was worthy of two each of the white corn tortillas I had smuggled back in my suitcase.  And the cilantro stood up just fine, too. 
          But I don’t know how to get any more or how to make it myself (she whined).

Tex-Med Stew

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            This is a really fabulous stew recipe found in the pages of Sunset magazine, October 2011.  It has the comforting base of a delicious chicken soup with Latin spicing, but then takes a surprising twist with the addition of briny olives and a little citrus.  Since I am spoiled for choice of olives here in Tunisia, I chose our tiniest black olives that have been cured with red chilies and chunks of preserved lemon.  The lemony, salty, heat this blend contributed made the soup, in my opinion.  The recipe calls for pimiento-stuffed green olives and some orange zest and that would be good too, but not as good.  Sorry.
            This soup was in a section of the magazine featuring beer pairings.  For my friend P, they suggested Gordon Biersch Blonde Bock with this soup.  Anything you can get your hands on in Prague?
            If you’re within driving distance of my house in Tunis and want me to spot you ½ cup of quinoa, just let me know.  I’ve got lots.
Chicken, Quinoa, and Green-Olive Stew
4 cups homemade chicken stock
2 lbs. boned, skinned chicken thighs
2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
1 large white onion, finely chopped
½ tsp. salt
1 tsp. each:  ground cumin, ground coriander, and dried oregano (preferably Mexican)
3 garlic cloves, minced
½ tsp. each:  ancho chile powder and cayenne
1 cup chopped ripe plum tomatoes (about 2 large) or fire-roasted diced canned tomatoes
2 tsp. orange zest
½ cup quinoa
1 cup cooked chickpeas (garbanzos), rinsed if canned
1 cup pimiento-stuffed small green olives
1.     Bring broth to a simmer in a large, heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat.  Add chicken and lower heat to a simmer.  Cook chicken, covered, 15-20 minutes or until cooked through; transfer to a plate.  Pour broth into a large bowl and set aside.  Wipe out pot.
2.     Add oil, onion, and salt to pot and cook over medium heat until onion softens and is starting to brown, about 10 minutes.
3.     Stir in cumin, coriander, oregano, and garlic; cook 2 minutes.  Add ancho chile powder, cayenne, chopped tomatoes, reserved broth, orange zest, and quinoa.  Reduce heat and simmer, covered, until a white ring appears around each quinoa seed, 10-15 minutes.  Meanwhile, shred chicken.
4.     Add shredded chicken, chickpeas, and olives and heat through.
Serves 4-6

Homecoming Muffins

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I’m home in Tunis and happy to be here.  I’m happy to be anywhere really that’s not an airplane, but really happy that it’s here.  I’m so, so blessed to have two homes that I love. 
Settling back in, I begin with an inventory of the kitchen.  Our fridge broke the day before I left for the US and poor Allan had his hands full with transferring everything into a much less capacious model.  He got everything generally in the right place, but efficiency wise, it is not a workable chilled pantry yet.
          It seemed like a good idea to me that rather than spend a bunch of time organizing the food we should just use up a lot of the food and then reorganize as we restock.  I wanted to make some ultra healthy muffins anyway, like a meal in a paper cup, so here was was my opportunity. I like this recipe because it allows me to use up 2 cups of shredded vegetables (4 because I doubled it) and also some muesli we needed to finish.   
Makes about 12 muffins
Ingredients
1 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 cup whole-wheat flour
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1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 1/2  teaspoons crystallized ginger, finely chopped
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1/4 teaspoon salt
2/3 cup muesli
2 large eggs
3/4 cup packed brown sugar
1/2 cup oil (safflower, canola, or olive)
2 cups (firmly packed) grated vegetables (zucchini, carrots, or beets)–use largest holes on box grater
1/2 cup raisins (optional)  
Procedure  
Preheat the oven to 350°. 
In a small bowl, combine the flour, baking soda, spices, and muesli. Whisk well to blend. 
In a mixing bowl beat the eggs, sugar and oil for 2 to 3 minutes or until very smooth. Add the grated vegetables and beat just until smooth. Add the dry ingredients and optional raisins and beat until completely moistened.
Scrape the batter into greased and floured (or paper cup-lined) muffin tins, filling each cup 3/4 full. Bake 20-25 minutes, until cake tester inserted in center comes out clean. Cool in the pan on a rack for 5 minutes. Unmold onto the rack. Cool completely and wrap airtight.